Taylor Made Mooring Whips

If you live on the waterfront, boating usually becomes a part of your everyday life. When we were children, my parents owned a Chris Craft that we played on until the sun went down in the summer and fall. One year, after several severe wind storms caused by the atmospheric grab bag of high humidity, cool Lake Michigan water and the weather circulation patterns caused by them, we were forced to anchor it off the dock. We didn’t know anything about Mooring Whips.

Docking Protection

If you have grown weary of the dings and marks that result from dock contact with your boat, Taylor Made may have just the solution! There are several options to protect your boat from dock wear, besides fenders. Mooring Whips can protect both the boat and the dock against damage by pulling your vessel away from the dock where wave, wind, wake, & tide action can damage it, while allowing the boat to move naturally with the water. 

Taylor Made Fenders

Taylor Made Products is one of the largest and most innovative suppliers of marine aftermarket products, including buoys, fenders, boat covers, bimini tops, dock and mooring products, flags, pennants and hardware.

To read more about your docking solutions…visit Go2marine.

Selection and Care of Line - Tips and Warnings

Let’s talk about lines….or is it rope?

From Wikipedia…A piece of rope that has a specific purpose is called a line, especially in nautical usage. Rope, once removed from the spool becomes anchor line, stern line, fishing line etc.

So, for this entry, we’ll use lines, since we are here because of our boats right?

Since a life can literally “be on the line” it is essential to know the strengths and weaknesses of all the lines on our boat. There’s a huge difference in the risk between lines that are used for hauling recreational crab pots and lines that are used for towing.

Common Fiber Types:

Natural fibers:

Manila – The preferred choice before synthetic fibers were developed. Manila still maintains some advantages to synthetic fibers. It is not affected by heat, and has an excellent resistance to the suns UV rays.

Sisal – Fibers from the Agave and Sisalana plants grown in some tropical countries. Sisal has many of the characteristics of manila, but offers only 80% of its strength. It is more economical than manila, and makes a good choice as a general use. It is commonly used as a tying twine.

Jute – Mainly used as a tying twine, it knots very well. Due to its short fibers, it does not have much strength.

Cotton – Typically white in color, cotton is a soft fiber which makes it nice to handle. Also knots very well. If you use it for decorative knots/mats etc you need to be watchful of dirt, and if damp, mildew and mold can be a problem.

Synthetic Fibers:

Polypropylene & Polyethylene – Making flexible and lightweight lines, these fibers are rot proof, resist oil, water, gasoline, and most chemicals. Also are the only line fibers that float. Available twisted or braided a perfect economical choice as a general purpose lines since they are the cheapest synthetic lines. But, they are often difficult to coil and subject to UV damage

Nylon – Known for its elasticity and tremendous shock absorbing qualities. It has good abrasion resistance, is rot proof, resists oil, gasoline, and most chemicals. It has good resistance to UV rays. Nylon will last 4-5 times longer than natural fibers. Because of its ability to stretch and absorb shock loads, it is an excellent choice for tie-up lines and anchor lines. It is especially suited for the latter since it is heavier than water and will sink, thus keeping your anchor rode down near the bottom where it should be.

Polyester – A very strong fiber with excellent abrasion resistance. Stretches less than nylon, does not have the elasticity of shock absorbing qualities that nylon does. It has good resistance to UV rays, and resists rot, oil, gasoline, and most chemicals. It is very popular for marine or industrial lines where stretch is not desired.

Alright, now that we are familiar with common fiber types, let’s talk about some performance and safety considerations.

Choosing a Line – Be especially vigilant selecting lines in situations involving personal safety or potential property damage. Consult the manufacturer or local distributor if there is any question concerning application. Make sure the line is adequate for the job. For example: dock lines should be sized similar to your ground tackle rode. A 3/8” dock line might be adequate for the load, but it would do poorly in service because of chafing.

Specifications for recommended working loads, strength and performance are available from the dealer, distributor or manufacturer. Chapman’s Piloting and the USCG Auxiliary Power Squadron offer trusted information for line sizing recommendations.

Removing Line from Coils & Reels – Remove line properly from coils or reels to prevent kinking. Haven’t we all made this mistake, how long does it take to untangle 600’ of line once it looks like a pot of spaghetti?

If the line is in a coil, it should always be uncoiled from the inside. If on a reel, remove the line by pulling it off the top while the reel is free to rotate. This can be accomplished by passing a pipe through the center of the reel and jacking both ends up in a horizontal position until the reel is free from the surface

Handling Line – Never stand in row with a line under tension. If the line or attachment fails, it can recoil and snap back just like a broken rubber band. Even worse, if the broken attachment is still tied to the line, you can end up with a cleat flying through the air like a missile attached to a bungee cord.

Reverse ends regularly, particularly when used in tackle. This permits even wearing and assures longer, useful life. When using tackle or slings, apply a steady, even pull to get full strength from line and always use slings employing an angle of about 45 degrees.

Overloading – Do not overload lines, sudden strains of shock loading can cause failure. It’s easy to tie for the minimum load and then find that the line is holding a maximum load; this is an especially important warning. All it takes is a gust of wind or wake from a boat and the shock can make even a line normally suitable snap in two.

Working loads are not applicable when the line is subject to significant dynamic loading. Whenever a load is picked up, stopped, moved or swung, there is an increased force due to dynamic loading. In extreme cases, the force put on the line may be two, three, or even more times the normal load involved.

Winching Lines – Proper procedures will prevent kinks and hockles (knots in cordage caused by twisting against the lay) in three-strand twisted line.

Repeated hauling of a line over a winch in a counterclockwise direction will extend the lay of twisted line and simultaneously change the twist of each strand. As this action continues, strand hockles or back turning may develop. Once hockles appear they cannot be removed, and the line is permanently damaged at the point of hockling. If the line is continuously hauled over a winch in a clockwise direction, the lay is shortened, and the line becomes stiff and will kink readily.

Checking Line for Wear – Avoid using line that shows signs of aging and wear. If in doubt, destroy the line.

No type of visual inspection can be guaranteed to accurately and precisely determine actual residual strength. When the fibers show wear in any given area, the line should be respliced, downgraded or replaced.

Check all lines regularly for frayed strands and broken yarns. Pulled strands should be rethreaded into the rope if possible. A pulled strand can snag on a foreign object during use. Both outer and inner rope fibers contribute to the strength. When either is worn, the line is naturally weakened. Open the strands of line (either three-strands or braided) slightly and look for powdered fiber, which is one sign of internal wear. A heavily used line will often become compacted or hard which indicates reduced strength. The line should be discarded if this condition exists.

When disposing of line, don’t just throw it in the water. Floating lines disposed of this way will continue to float and foul boat props. The sinking lines can foul in other’s crab traps. Make sure that all line is properly disposed of.

Splicing – Join ends by splicing.

Use the manufacturer’s recommended splices for maximum efficiency. Other termination can be used, but their strength loss for a particular type of line construction should be determined and not assumed.

And be careful when choosing your knots. Knots can decrease line strength by as much as 60%. Even the most favored knot, the bowline, will greatly reduce line strength due to the bend it creates.

Chemicals – Avoid chemical exposure, lines are subject to damage by chemicals.

Consult the manufacturer for specific chemical exposure such as solvents, acids, and alkalis. This is particularly true for natural fiber lines.

Heat – Avoid overheating, heat can seriously affect the strength, especially with synthetic lines. Polypropylene loses 50% of its strength at 150 degrees, nylon at 350 degrees and polyester at 390 degrees. When using lines where temperatures exceed 140 degrees F (or if it is too hot to hold), consult the manufacturer for recommendations as to the size and type of lines for the proposed continuous heat exposure conditions.

Abrasion – Avoid all abrasive conditions, all lines will be severely damaged if subject to rough surfaces or sharp edges. Check the manufacturer’s specifications since some newer super strong lines do not hold up well to abrasion, extreme running over a sharp edge (kinking) or internal abrasion from salt and other contaminants. Kern-mantle (single braid) ropes are all susceptible to abrasion damage and specifically sheath damage. Line that is under tension is also more susceptible to damage. High tech line cores such as Spectra, Kevlar, Olefin, Vectran (Hoechst Celanese Vectran liquid crystal polymer) and Technora all need to be kept clean and maintain an intact sheath to insure abrasion resistance.

Chocks, bitts, winches, drums and other surfaces must be kept in good condition and free of burrs and rust. Pulleys must be free to rotate and should be of proper size to avoid excessive wear. Restraining clamps and similar devices will damage and weaken the lines and should be used with extreme caution.

Storage and Care – All lines should be stored clean, dry, out of direct sunlight, and away from extreme heat.

Cordage should be stored in a cool, dry and well ventilated warehouse, off the floor and hung on racks to allow ventilation underneath. Never store lines on a concrete or dirt floor, and under no circumstances should cordage and acid or alkalis be kept in the same building.

Do not store lines in direct sunlight; some synthetic lines may be severely weakened due to prolonged exposure to UV rays unless specifically stabilized to increase its UV resistance. UF degradation is indicated by discoloration and the presence of splinters and slivers on the surface.

So there you have it, some of the most pertinent care and usage reminders to stay safe on the water. Often we don’t even think about the condition of our lines, they’ve always been there and done the intended job. Now is the time to check all lines on board for fraying and hockles, reverse ends and assess storage methods to get the most out of this valuable tool. Go2marine’s extensive offering of lines and their staff of marine experts are available to help you slect the ideal line for your needs.

i2Systems LED Marine Lighting

 New to the extensive marine product line carried at Go2marine.com is a selection of LED lights manufactured by i2Systems.

Featuring down lights for Surface or Recessed mounting, i2Systems marine lighting is ideal for dry, damp and even wet locations. Perfect for lighting the dark spaces under counters, dark cabins and even cockpits.

Offering the efficiency of LED, these lights have up to a 50,000 hour lifetime, a uniform light beam and stay cool to the touch.

Kenyon Cooktops and Burners

1970's Era Pressurized Alcohol Stove (aka: Curtain Burner)

As the owner of an older boat, I quickly learned the fickleness of my 1970’s era pressurized alcohol stove. Put too much alcohol in the priming tray and I would sit with my fire extinguisher aimed ready to put out the fire. On more than one occasion I found myself watching flames almost reaching the ceiling (guess that’s why it was called the “curtain burner”). Once the flame was stable, it worked fairly well; however, I was never comfortable with it. While alcohol fires can be extinguished by water, they can be hard to see and spread before anyone notices.

KITSAP SUN

I had been considering my options for some time but hadn’t taken any action. Then, on the longest day of the year, a new boat owner had his sailboat in the middle of the bay, anchored for lunch and decided to try out his alcohol stove. Flames quickly engulfed the boat; thankfully there were only minor injuries however 5 people were rescued from the water. As the nearest fire boat was over an hour away, the authorities made the decision to let the boat burn to the water line, quite the site to see a burning sailboat floating around the bay.

That’s all it took for me to quickly do something about my cooking system. By the next week the stove, lines and tank were out of my boat.

Now comes the tough part, deciding what to replace it with. Go2marine carries cook stoves from several major manufactures and has recently added the Kenyon Appliance line of stoves. With electric models, self-priming alcohol, even electric grills so charcoal and liquid fuels are not needed to get that grilled look and taste, Kenyon stoves may be just what I am looking for.

Still have not decided what I am going to use as a permanent solution but for the time being, the Kenyon Express II model works perfect, fuel cartridges are long lasting, readily available and the entire unit is so portable that I can take it for a picnic, camping or where ever extra cooking space is needed.

 

A New Solution to Replacing Rub Rails

Rub Rails

When I traded my 1966 Dodge Coronet Convertible for a 1984, 7.3m Tanzer sailboat a few years ago, the replacement of the flexible rub rail was the first major project. Few projects do as much to improve the appearance of an older boat as a bright, new rub rail.

The previous owner had a marine fiberglass repair shop and his new wife didn’t like the “tippy” boat, so the trade worked out for both of us.  He got rid of the boat slip payment, his wife was happy and I got a great little sailboat made by C&C, one of the best sailboat builders in Canada, with a solid hull.

The owner had spent a bucket load of money making the boat hull as smooth as a baby’s bottom, removing every little bubble, blister or crack.  The new Awlgrip paint job was beautiful! The boat had been on stilts for 4 years while he and his crew spent their spare time painting every surface outside the boat.

As time went on, the rub rail needed to be replaced.  It was cracking and powering, looking old and worn next to the beautiful paint on the hull and decks.  No amount of cleaning and buffing seemed to make the boat’s rub rail look better.

In order to keep the boat as original as possible, the rub rail that was originally installed on the boat was purchased by contacting the boat builder to find the manufacturer and part number.

The boat was hauled and the yard put it up on mounts so that work could begin on the rub rail installation.  The flexible rub rail came in one piece, coiled into a box and it was a very heavy, thick, almost rigid vinyl rubber.   The instructions called for a heat gun to make the rubber pliable while two people guided the rub rail into place as it was stretched from the back of the stern, along the starboard side of the boat, around the bow and back along the port side to meet at the stern.  

Personally, I couldn’t visualize trying to manhandle the rub rail into place while using the heat gun.  Instead, I rented a large, industrial cook pot, cook stand and propane bottle from an equipment rental service, filled it with water and boiled the rub rail until it was soft.  Using thick, heat resistant gloves, it was easily stretched into place.  It took a fraction of the time and all I had to do was watch the water boil. 

You can’t imagine how many people in the yard told me it wouldn’t work.  After I contacted the manufacturer to make sure I wasn’t going to destroy the rub rail material, I decided it was a far better procedure for softening the vinyl enough to maneuver and apply to the seam. The rub rail covered the junction point of the fiberglass boat deck and hull. 

3M 5200 Adhesive/Sealant

We used 3M 5200 fast cure marine adhesive/sealant to glue it in place and provide a waterproof seal.  It’s tack free in about one hour and completely cures in 24.  The polyurethane adhesive delivers strong, flexible seals, and is ideal for applications where a fast, long-term seal is needed above or below the boat waterline, such as hull to deck seams, wood to fiberglass, marine hardware, and hull and stern joints. This sealant remains flexible, allowing structural movement, and has excellent resistance to weathering and the marine environment.

There are a variety of options available when you decide to replace the current rub rails on your boat or upgrade to a different material, change rail size or both. Picking the best rub rail material for your boat depends on where and how you boat. If your boating adventures take you to unprotected docks or other areas where you want more protection for the hull of your vessel, choose a bigger, thicker rail. To lessen impact, go with softer material. A heavier rail made of harder material may be your best option if you have a work boat.

Today, companies like Taco Metals provide Rub Rail Guides by Boat Make in order to help boat owners locate new rub rails. Some rub rails are available as kits and also provide rail end caps to give your project a finished, professional touch.

Taco Metals - Rub Rails

If you are unsure of which material or combination of materials will best suit your boating needs, the material descriptions will help you determine which of TACO Metal’s rub rails will best meet your requirements. TACO Metals has been manufacturing quality marine products since 1959 so you can trust that their materials have stood the test of time.

NavSim Technology Inc. GPS Enabled Marine Navigation Software

NavSim Technology Inc. GPS Enabled Marine Navigation Software

NavSim Technology creates navigation software to turn laptops, PCs and handheld devices into Portable Piloting Units. NavSim focuses on software and hardware solutions for land and marine applications that are powerful yet easy to use with today’s electronic charts and maps. NavSim’s GPS enabled technology gives boaters and hikers alike real time route tracking capabilities.

• NavSim’s Electronic Navigation lineup includes:
• BoatCruiser 2.0 for power boaters
• SailCuriser with SailTimer by Craig Summers of Indepth Navigation for sailors
• NavCruiser PRO for professional pilots as used by the pilots on the St. Lawrence River
• MapCruiser for land based GPS units, PDAs, pocket PCs and hardcopy topographic map printing

 

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Featuring BoatCruiser 2.0


BoatCruiser 2.0 gives pleasure boat captains top notch navigation and piloting tools. NavSim put years of research into the development of BoatCruiser’s predictive autopilot technology. Technology that promotes safety and increases the pleasure of your cruising time with advanced electronic chart planning and real time on the water route tracking.

Once connected, BoatCruiser automatically locates and configures the other marine instruments on your boat. You can select and size up to four navigation information consoles on screen at once or select one to view full screen. You can zoom and tilt to perspective views depending on the electronic chart you use. BoatCruiser 2.0 incudes NavSim’s Fuel Consumption and Cost Calculator that estimates the amount & cost of fuel you will need to reach your destination.

BoatCruiser 2.0 supports Electronic Charts from C-MAP, Maptech, NDI Digital Ocean, NOAA ENC S-57, QV, SoftChart & E-Topo.

BoatCruiser 2.0 Planning Tools & Navigation Features:

• Multiple Marine Instrument Support - GPS, AIS, Autopilot, ARPA/MARPA, Depth Sounder
• Man Overboard
• One Click Route Planning
• Seamless Chart Quilting & Chart Rotation
• High-Resolution Chart Printing
• Parallel Index Line
• Course Up, Chart Up, True North or Magnetic North Up
• Customizable Markers
• Entry or Exit Zones & Zones Alarms
• Unique Customizable Screen Displays
• Tides & Currents
• Marinas, Points of Interest & Locations Search
• Night & Dusk Displays

Seloc Marine Engine Repair Manuals

Seloc Marine Engine Repair Manuals

Seloc is a leader and innovator of marine engine repair manuals for outboards, inboards, stern drives, diesels and PWC’s (Personal Water Craft). Seloc print manuals, Seloc online manuals and SelocPro are available at Go2marine.

Seloc Print Manuals

Seloc offers a full line of printed manuals with complete coverage on everything from basic maintenance to complete engine or drive overhaul; featuring simple-to-follow, step-by-step, illustrated procedures, hundreds of exploded views, photographs, tables, wiring diagrams, specifications, and user friendly indexes.  Many of our newer manuals contain a skill level rating system for each procedure which also include special tool icons.

Contains complete and accurate how-to information for the do-it-yourselfers and the experienced mechanic.

Has photos, illustrations and step-by-step instructions for quick identification and corrections for any problem.

Also contains comprehensive electrical wiring schematics for all models.

The quick reference section provides commonly used specifications and service information.

An easy-to-use index to quickly locate the information you need.

Seloc Online Manuals

Seloc Online, an internet based subscription product, is the most comprehensive online tool available for do-it-yourself repairs! Our database of mechanical repairs offers complete service procedures, wiring diagrams, maintenance schedules, specifications, parts database, dealer locator, and more.

Provides the user with unlimited Internet access for three years for a “single model/year” engine and the respective drive system.

SelocPro, Professional Online Service 

Our professional version, Seloc Pro is the most comprehensive database tool available to marine technicians! Unlimited access to our database of mechanical repair, including mechanical labor times, service procedures, wiring diagrams, parts, specifications, and an estimating module with parts and pricing.

 Seloc’s print marine engine repair manuals

Seloc Publishing

Example - Outboard Engine

Typical index for Maintenance and Repair operations

 

Battery

   Marine Batteries

   Battery Construction

   Battery Ratings

   Battery Location

   Battery Service

   Battery Testing

   Jumper Cables

   Storage

   Dual Battery Installation

Below Waterline Service

Boat Testing

   Hook And Rocker

   Performance

Boating Safety 

     Regulations For Your Boat

     Required Safety Equipment 

     Equipment Not Required But Recommended 

     Courtesy Marine Examinations

Bottom Seal

   Inspection

   Removal

Break-In Procedures

Bypass Cover

   Removal & Installation

Carburetor

   Application

   Description

   Disassembly & Assembly

   Preliminary Adjustments

   Preliminary Idle Speed Adjustment

   Removal & Installation

Carburetor Adjustments

   Fuel And Fuel Tanks

   Idle Adjustment

   Oil/Fuel Mixture

CDII Ignition System

   Compression

   Description

   Flywheel

   Identification

   Ignition Coil

   Ignition Module

   Operation

   Power Pack

   Sensor Coil

   Service

   Testing

   Troubleshooting

Centering Pins

   Service

Charging System

   AC Lighting Coil Tests

   Alternator Output Test

   Choke Circuit Tests

   Troubleshooting

   Rectifier TESTS

   Stator Tests

Compression Check

   Checking Compression

Connecting Rods And Pistons

   Assembly

   Description

   Disassembly

   Inspection And Service

   Installation

   Removal

Crankcase Cover

   Cleaning And Inspecting

   Service

 + 120 more Indexed subjects!

Anchors

Anchors

No other single piece of equipment is so well discussed (and debated) by all pleasure boaters as anchors. On a given weekend, while working on deck, I have often heard somebody come by and make a comment about anchors on boats - I had a Delta 55# as my primary anchor on a 26,000# Ingrid 38 Ketch which stood out as a heavy anchor. Power boaters and sailors alike debate design, size, usage and holding power of anchors. An anchor can allow you to sleep well or it can destroy a trip or vessel. No other single piece of equipment will put a vessel in as immediate danger as when you are counting on your anchor; and your anchor fails to hold. A proper anchor will hold you to the bottom when you are drifting without a motor, while sleeping the night in a cove or weathering out a storm off a wave washed shore. An anchor also allows you to explore and overnight in places with no docks, mooring buoys; off the beaten path.

Anchor History

1300 - 1800 BC

Early anchors are thought to be rocks tied to rope and there is archaeological evidence dating from the Bronze Age to support this. For over 3000 years, anchors consisted of using a great mass to hold a vessel at anchor. In 1637, the “Sovereign of the Seas,”  at 1600 tons, carried 12 anchors of 4000 pounds each! It was during the 1600’s that two goals were combined to make anchors what they are today, a penetrating point (from the hook) and a reasonable mass.

1846 - Kedge Anchor

The fisherman, yachtsman, or kedge, anchor works well in sand and mud, and is better in hard bottoms and grass than other anchors. The design is a non-burying type, with one arm penetrating the seabed and the other arm standing proud. The kedge anchor is popular as the ultimate storm anchor. It has stood the test of time and is still built today, in a virtually unchanged form.

1933 - Plow Anchor

Popular cruising anchors, the plow anchors include the old cruising standard CQR ‘secure’ - “Coastal Quick Release” and the modern Delta. They get their name from the plow shape witch digs in well and this anchor will reset itself if a change in pull trips it. Although it may not bury in hard bottoms, this anchor is more effective in grass than other lightweight anchors. This anchor is hard to stow, except on a bow roller.

1943 - Fluke Design

The Danforth is lightweight compared to its holding power, the Danforth is superb in sand and mud, and its flat configuration makes it easy to carry aboard. The Danforth doesn’t set well in hard bottoms, and sea grass can keep it from reaching the bottom. There are many similar lightweight fluke anchors on the market, including the Fortress, which is aluminum. In a strong current, the broad flukes of the Danforth and similar fluke anchors can make them sail through the water rather than sink to the bottom.

1970’s - Claw Anchors

Claw and Manta anchors are originally based on the Bruce anchor; the anchor designed to keep North Sea Rigs in their place. The Claw style anchor will reset itself if tripped. However, it doesn’t do well in hard bottoms, and the shape of the flukes makes it vulnerable to fouling in heavy grass. A fixed shank anchor that is harder to stow.

 Since the 1970’s, private pleasure boats have driven the popularity and design of modern anchors for small to medium sized vessels. Aluminum versions of Fluke Anchors, modern fixed shank plows like the Delta and Claw are all anchors that have received and furthered designs of older proven anchors.

You will need more than one Anchor abour a boat that spends any time away from the dock.

A 34 foot cruising sailboat might carry 4 anchors; a 35# Plow anchor (main), a 33# Claw (backup), a 50# Fisherman or 40# Fluke anchor (storm) and a 8.8# grapnel (lunch hook, dingy, dredging).

For a 34 foot weekender sailboat, you could carry one 45# plow - the Delta as a main anchor and a 40# fluke as a backup anchor.

A 35 foot power boat might carry 3 anchors; a 33# stainless steel Claw (main), a 40# Fluke (backup, storm) and a small grapple or fluke anchor (lunch hook, dingy, dredging).

Free Gill Quick-Dry Towel at Go2marine

Now through June 16, receive a FREE Quick-Dry Towel with any purchase of $150 or more of Gill at Go2marine.

Gill is the true enthusiast’s brand, passionate about the boating life style and sport. Known worldwide for their innovative apparel and sailing gear, they support sailing throughout the world with their sponsorships of sailing at every level.

What to Wear on the Newport – Bermuda Race

Nick Gill has written the following comprehensive article to help you select the proper gear if you are participating in the Newport - Bermuda race. However the information is valuable for any sailing adventure.

I became involved in the technical sailing clothing business back in 1975 because at the time there was so little choice, particularly for the competitive dinghy sailor. Thirty years on things have gone to the other extreme, there is literally so much choice, from so many brands that chances are you will end up confused on what is right for you. The danger is you will leave the decision making for another year and end up cold wet and uncomfortable.

A few key headline points to consider which emphasize the need to have the right clothing.

• Being cold and wet makes you tire easily and reduces your reaction time
• With the right choice you should never have to be cold again
• Cotton clothing absorbs moisture and up to 25% of its own weight, once it is wet it will stay wet for the duration
• Wet or damp materials transfers heat 20 times quicker than dry fabrics do
• Cotton should remain onshore and be replaced by technical quick dry polyester materials

Conditions

The race can begin in cold and windy conditions, and end in the sweltering heat and light airs, and probably most things in between. Night sailing is always a lot colder and depending on the size of boat could be between three and six days. These diverse conditions mean your kit bag will need a wide range of gear.

Layering – A Personal Climate Control System

I believe it is best to look at your options in terms of layers. Hot or cold, the layering system makes enormous sense and functions as your personal climate control system.

The Base Layer is vital.
One of its main purposes is to keep you dry next to the skin and it does this by wicking moisture away from the body. In an hour of moderate exercise the body gives off half a liter of water – it has to go somewhere - and if you are wearing cotton it literally absorbs the water much like blotting paper. Once wet or even damp, it will transfer heat from your body 20 times faster than dry fabric. Remember that sailing is a sport where you can be sitting still for long periods then along comes a sail change or requirement to put a reef in and all hell breaks loose for a few minutes. You then sit down again. If you are wearing cotton clothing next to the skin it will absorb the moisture and suck the heat out of your body, leaving you feeling cold and clammy and tired.

Base Layer Options

For the cooler part of the journey I recommend Gill i2 Lite. There are many choices of long or short sleeve, Crew Neck or Zip Polo as well as Leggings and Boxer Shorts. Don’t forget the boxers as damp cotton underwear is no fun!

For warmer conditions, Gill has introduced technical long and short sleeve shirts. They are very fast drying, highly wicking and have a UV SPF 50 sun protection factor, essential for the latter part of the ARC rally. This new Technical Apparel range has a natural feel, is not tight fitting and is very comfortable for long periods.

The key elements of the Technical Apparel range are;

• Fast Drying
• Fast Wicking
• UV Protection to SPF 50
• A Natural Feel

All garments adhere to these principals and also feature a water repellent finish so water beads off rather than soaks in. However warm and dry it is on a boat it is inevitable there will be damp decks and spray around at times.

The Mid Layer is the insulation or thermostat control.
Just as Gill has a simple classification system for durability of the outer layer fabrics, our base and mid layers also have a straightforward classification system. It is known as the i37 body temperature regulating system - 37 degrees centigrade being the natural body temperature. The i series goes from i2 to i5 increasing in warmth as you go up the scale.

Gill Mid-Layer Options

i3 Micro Fleece Mid Layer: A lightweight fleece. This is a super soft and close fitting fleece providing warmth without bulk and comes in a top and trousers. In predominantly mild conditions but with cooler nights it is ideal under foul weather gear.

i4 Fleece Mid Layer: This range is made in Polartec Classic 200 mid weight fleece and is available in a Zip Jacket, Zip Smock and Salopettes. It is slim fitting and flat seamed which is ideal as a mid layer and for wearing under the outer layer. As with all technical fleeces the i4 is quick drying. I particularly recommend the i4 Salopettes, as these are great to sleep in too.

i5 Shelled Mid Layers: I believe the ultimate mid-layer is the Crosswind Jacket and Crosswind Salopettes. The outer layer is a lightweight waterproof laminated fabric. It is highly breathable. The insulation is an ultra compact material giving exceptional warmth without bulk. It is hydrophobic (water hating) meaning it can still keep you warm when wet. Combine these materials with a taffeta lining and the garments become so easy to slip on unlike a fleece lined garment. An added bonus is the garment has taped seams and can be worn on it’s own in moderate conditions.

Another relatively new concept is Gill Softshell. A sandwiched lamination of different materials giving warmth, wind and water resistance with stretch, giving appareled comfort in sailing wear. The Gill Softshell race jacket and pants are perfect as a mid layer or in warmer conditions as an outer layer.

The Outer Layer is the protection.
There are three suitable options in the Gill range depending how much you want to spend. Regardless of which you select, you will need a Jacket and Chest High Trousers.

The main difference between the garment options is the height of the collar and the durability of the materials. There are two types of material available, 2-layer and 3-layer.

2-Layer Fabric is generally lighter and because the coating is unprotected requires a lining in the garment. It is also less expensive and slightly less durable.

3-Layer fabrics are a sandwich with the waterproof membrane in the middle. The outer fabric gives the texture and the abrasion and snag resistance whereas the inner is a scrim and this protects the coating from wear and tear. Our 3-layer garments are the most durable, do not need a lining but are also more expensive owing not just to the fabric cost (more than 50% higher) but also the taping costs both in materials and labor.

Outer Layer Options

Key West: Our most suitable 2-layer garment is the Key West Coastal Offshore Jacket and Trousers. It is mid-weight, packed with features, has a collar that ends just at the top of the ears and is the most suitable suit for a wide range of conditions. If most of your sailing is coastal cruising with the occasional offshore passage, then Key West will do the job. It is reasonably priced, comes in Unisex and women’s specific sizing and the women’s trousers have a very useful drop seat.

Atlantic: As its name implies, the Atlantic is perfect for the job. It is made using a 3-layer fabric, heavier and more durable and it has a much higher collar. If you do a fair amount of offshore sailing and the occasional race then this would be my recommendation. Atlantic is made in our 5-dot Ocean grade fabric and was restyled for 2006.

Ocean Racer: If budget is less of an issue there is the Ocean Racer Jacket combining the superb features of the Atlantic suit but with many innovative design systems that reduce weight and improve the garment breathability but without sacrificing performance.

This is achieved by material selection; reducing flaps and overlays to a minimum and a cut that makes the garment so comfortable to wear. This is the range that Gill developed during the last Volvo Ocean Race with the crew of Illbruck, the overall winner. The performance to weight ratio was key to them.

Hands and Feet.
The most common injuries on boats are to the hands and feet. Stubbing your toe because you don’t have shoes on is one thing but slipping and ending up overboard is quite another.

Footwear Options

Last year Gill launched a new shoe called the “Gripper”. As the name implies, the grip is outstanding. We test all our footwear on a slip rig at an independent footwear testing house. It tests in wet and dry conditions, on varnished wood and glass fibre decking – the latter was something I had to supply as it was not in their usual manual! The slip resistance on the shoe went off the scale and surpassed anything we had tested before. It is achieved through a very soft rubber compound and a flexible sole. The sole is also very flat on the ground so you feel very secure as it literally wraps around the deck.

Glove Options

Gloves are also important, not just to protect from rope burn but also from getting fingers caught or trapped. There are many options but I would strongly recommend long finger gloves. The Gill Pro-Glove is probably the toughest on the market using a material known as Proton Ultra as opposed to the thinner Amara.

I cannot say that I have done the Newport-Bermuda race, but who knows one day I may get the opportunity. If I did this is what I would take from what I guess some people would see as an envious amount of choice. A mere 50,000 pieces of technical sailing clothing just a few feet away from me at any one time.