NavSim Technology Inc. GPS Enabled Marine Navigation Software

NavSim Technology Inc. GPS Enabled Marine Navigation Software

NavSim Technology creates navigation software to turn laptops, PCs and handheld devices into Portable Piloting Units. NavSim focuses on software and hardware solutions for land and marine applications that are powerful yet easy to use with today’s electronic charts and maps. NavSim’s GPS enabled technology gives boaters and hikers alike real time route tracking capabilities.

• NavSim’s Electronic Navigation lineup includes:
• BoatCruiser 2.0 for power boaters
• SailCuriser with SailTimer by Craig Summers of Indepth Navigation for sailors
• NavCruiser PRO for professional pilots as used by the pilots on the St. Lawrence River
• MapCruiser for land based GPS units, PDAs, pocket PCs and hardcopy topographic map printing

 

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Featuring BoatCruiser 2.0


BoatCruiser 2.0 gives pleasure boat captains top notch navigation and piloting tools. NavSim put years of research into the development of BoatCruiser’s predictive autopilot technology. Technology that promotes safety and increases the pleasure of your cruising time with advanced electronic chart planning and real time on the water route tracking.

Once connected, BoatCruiser automatically locates and configures the other marine instruments on your boat. You can select and size up to four navigation information consoles on screen at once or select one to view full screen. You can zoom and tilt to perspective views depending on the electronic chart you use. BoatCruiser 2.0 incudes NavSim’s Fuel Consumption and Cost Calculator that estimates the amount & cost of fuel you will need to reach your destination.

BoatCruiser 2.0 supports Electronic Charts from C-MAP, Maptech, NDI Digital Ocean, NOAA ENC S-57, QV, SoftChart & E-Topo.

BoatCruiser 2.0 Planning Tools & Navigation Features:

• Multiple Marine Instrument Support - GPS, AIS, Autopilot, ARPA/MARPA, Depth Sounder
• Man Overboard
• One Click Route Planning
• Seamless Chart Quilting & Chart Rotation
• High-Resolution Chart Printing
• Parallel Index Line
• Course Up, Chart Up, True North or Magnetic North Up
• Customizable Markers
• Entry or Exit Zones & Zones Alarms
• Unique Customizable Screen Displays
• Tides & Currents
• Marinas, Points of Interest & Locations Search
• Night & Dusk Displays

Anchors

Anchors

No other single piece of equipment is so well discussed (and debated) by all pleasure boaters as anchors. On a given weekend, while working on deck, I have often heard somebody come by and make a comment about anchors on boats - I had a Delta 55# as my primary anchor on a 26,000# Ingrid 38 Ketch which stood out as a heavy anchor. Power boaters and sailors alike debate design, size, usage and holding power of anchors. An anchor can allow you to sleep well or it can destroy a trip or vessel. No other single piece of equipment will put a vessel in as immediate danger as when you are counting on your anchor; and your anchor fails to hold. A proper anchor will hold you to the bottom when you are drifting without a motor, while sleeping the night in a cove or weathering out a storm off a wave washed shore. An anchor also allows you to explore and overnight in places with no docks, mooring buoys; off the beaten path.

Anchor History

1300 - 1800 BC

Early anchors are thought to be rocks tied to rope and there is archaeological evidence dating from the Bronze Age to support this. For over 3000 years, anchors consisted of using a great mass to hold a vessel at anchor. In 1637, the “Sovereign of the Seas,”  at 1600 tons, carried 12 anchors of 4000 pounds each! It was during the 1600’s that two goals were combined to make anchors what they are today, a penetrating point (from the hook) and a reasonable mass.

1846 - Kedge Anchor

The fisherman, yachtsman, or kedge, anchor works well in sand and mud, and is better in hard bottoms and grass than other anchors. The design is a non-burying type, with one arm penetrating the seabed and the other arm standing proud. The kedge anchor is popular as the ultimate storm anchor. It has stood the test of time and is still built today, in a virtually unchanged form.

1933 - Plow Anchor

Popular cruising anchors, the plow anchors include the old cruising standard CQR ‘secure’ - “Coastal Quick Release” and the modern Delta. They get their name from the plow shape witch digs in well and this anchor will reset itself if a change in pull trips it. Although it may not bury in hard bottoms, this anchor is more effective in grass than other lightweight anchors. This anchor is hard to stow, except on a bow roller.

1943 - Fluke Design

The Danforth is lightweight compared to its holding power, the Danforth is superb in sand and mud, and its flat configuration makes it easy to carry aboard. The Danforth doesn’t set well in hard bottoms, and sea grass can keep it from reaching the bottom. There are many similar lightweight fluke anchors on the market, including the Fortress, which is aluminum. In a strong current, the broad flukes of the Danforth and similar fluke anchors can make them sail through the water rather than sink to the bottom.

1970’s - Claw Anchors

Claw and Manta anchors are originally based on the Bruce anchor; the anchor designed to keep North Sea Rigs in their place. The Claw style anchor will reset itself if tripped. However, it doesn’t do well in hard bottoms, and the shape of the flukes makes it vulnerable to fouling in heavy grass. A fixed shank anchor that is harder to stow.

 Since the 1970’s, private pleasure boats have driven the popularity and design of modern anchors for small to medium sized vessels. Aluminum versions of Fluke Anchors, modern fixed shank plows like the Delta and Claw are all anchors that have received and furthered designs of older proven anchors.

You will need more than one Anchor abour a boat that spends any time away from the dock.

A 34 foot cruising sailboat might carry 4 anchors; a 35# Plow anchor (main), a 33# Claw (backup), a 50# Fisherman or 40# Fluke anchor (storm) and a 8.8# grapnel (lunch hook, dingy, dredging).

For a 34 foot weekender sailboat, you could carry one 45# plow - the Delta as a main anchor and a 40# fluke as a backup anchor.

A 35 foot power boat might carry 3 anchors; a 33# stainless steel Claw (main), a 40# Fluke (backup, storm) and a small grapple or fluke anchor (lunch hook, dingy, dredging).

Edson Boat Steering Wheels

Edson Boat Steering Wheels

Edson manufactures boat steering wheels for both sailboats and powerboats. From Edson’s American Manufacturing locations, they produce stainless steel, wood, cast and composite boat steering wheels.  Edson supplies boat steering wheels that are suitable for any vessel of any size.

Edson’s Carbon Fiber Boat Steering Wheel - less than 10 lbs in a 54″ wheel

Edson’s Carbon / Wood Laminated Boat Steering Wheel fitted to the Baltic 152′ Pink Gin, features alternating layers of Teak, Holly and Carbon Fiber, forming a unique blend of traditional and modern building materials. Hand built by third generation master craftsmen, each boat wheel is built to the customers specifications, combining woods of your choice with composite materials sealed with clear Awl Grip.

Twin Edson custom boat wheels aboard Baltic 152

Edson leads in Powerboat steering wheels with the Stainless Comfort Grip Power Wheel. Edson’s production power boat steering wheels are quality built in the USA. You may add features such as a steering knob and custom engraved center nuts. From modern stainless steel destroyer wheels to cast aluminum character wheels offering a traditional look, Edson builds a powerboat steering for you.

Edson powergrip power boat steering wheel

 Edson steering wheels for modern sailboats are most often destroyer boat wheels mounted to an Edson steering pedestal. Offered for virtually every production and custom sailboat, Edson supplies a steering system, steering pedestal or steering wheel that will fit you vessel.

 

Power Boat Spring Preparation Checklist: With Go2marine

Power Boat Spring Preparation Checklist: Go2marine is proud to help you get ready! My general rule of thumb is to plan on spending 10 hours to do everything (for a vessel under 30’), then add 5 more hours for complex systems. You will spend 15 hours readying your 30’ vessel for use over the next season. For a 40’, double the time (30 hours), for a 50’ double the time, again (60 hours).

I also advocate doing those ‘one time’ jobs you have put off for so long, like labeling all the diesel engine bleed locations and hanging a wrench near one to make it easy to do! 

This is a quick, check list (you may copy and paste; then print it out – or just print everything). I kept the text to a minimum and this will print out to six pages. – on the trailer or tied to a dock. This list covers POWER large and small power boats 

POWER VESSELS, including trailer

GENERAL: getting the boat ready to inspect

Go2marine helps you get ready

• Do a general cleaning of hull, deck and topsides using a mild , environmental safe detergent
• Make sure drains and scuppers are clear
• Put on a good coat of wax in all hull topsides
• Clean and polish metal with a good metal polish
• Clean teak (and other wood) and oil to reseal
• Clean windows and hatches, clean screens
• Clean canvas, bimini and dodger (use same soap)
• Clean interior including bilges
• Check spare parts and tools and replace as necessary
• Make sure registration is current and onboard
• Check and replace wiper blades if necessary

HULL: outside inspection

Marine Maintenance & Hardware Supplies

• Check for hull abrasions, scratches, gouges, etc. and repair
• Check and replace zincs
• Check for blisters and refinish is necessary
• Check rub rails, has anything come loose?
• Check swim platform and/or ladder
• Inspect and test trim tabs
• Check shaft, cutlass bearing, strut and prop
• Lubricate stuffing boxes, shaft and rudder logs
• Check rudder and fittings
• Touch up or replace antifouling paint, boot strip paint

DECK, FITTINGS, SAFETY EQUIPMENT:

Deck, Cockpit & Hull

• Check stanchion, pulpits and lifelines for integrity
• Check ground tackle, anchor, rode and backup anchor / rode, etc.
• Check lines, fenders, etc.
• Check cleats and deck fittings
• Check hull/deck joint
• Check deck, windows, and port lights for leaks
• Inspect anchor windlass and lubricate
• Check dinghy, and life raft

BELOW DECKS: if it is in the back of a locker, or hidden below floorboards – check it now!

Plumbing Fittings and Valves

• Check, test and lubricate seacocks
• Check all thruhull fittings
• Check condition of hoses and clamps
• Make sure below waterline hoses are double clamped
• Check bilges pumps for automatic and manual operation
• Check for oil in bilges
• Check limber holes and make sure they are clear of debris

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM AND COMPONENTS:

Marine Electrical Equipment and Supplies

• Check battery water level – the single most often ignored task
• Check/recharge batteries
• Check terminals for corrosion, clean and lubricate
• Check bonding system
• Inspect all wiring for wear and chafe
• Test all gauges for operability
• Check shore power and charger
• Check for spare fuses or breakers
• Check all lighting fixtures (including navigation lights) and make sure you have spare bulbs
• Check all electronics for proper operation
• Inspect antennas

REQUIRED AND RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT:

Safety & Flotation

• Sound signaling device – spare air can for air horn
• Check distress signals and expiration date
• Check PFDs (lifejackets)
• Inspect life rings and cushions
• Check fire extinguishers certification and recharge if necessary
• Check and adjust compass
• Check navigation lights
• Check charts and replace as necessary
• Check radar reflector
• Check and replace first aid supplies
• Check bailer and hand pump

INBOARD ENGINE(S):

Browse Inboard Engine Parts

• Change oil & filters - have spare oil & filters onboard
• Check and change fuel filters - have spares onboard
• Check and change engine zincs
• Check cooling system change coolant as necessary - have extra onboard
• Record engine maintenance log, especially date & hours of last oil changes
• Check belts for tension – carry spare(s)
• Check transmission fluid
• Check and clean backfire flame arrestor
• Check impeller
• Check and clean water strainer
• Check bilge blower
• Adjust valves, general service engine

OUTBOARD MOTOR:

Browse Outboard Engine Parts

• Replace spark plugs
• Check plug wires for wear
• Check prop for nicks and bends
• Change/fill gear lube
• Inspect fuel lines, primer bulb and tank for leaks
• Lubricate and spray moveable parts

HEAD SYSTEM:

Toilets & Sanitary Systems

• Checked for smooth operation - lubricate and clean as necessary
• If equipped with treatment system, have chemicals on hand
• Y-valve operation checked, valve labeled & secured

WATER SYSTEM:

Freshwater Systems

• Flush water tank
• Shock the drinking water tank. Spa shock breaks down in a few days and then can be flushed out
• Replace water filters
• Check water system and pump for leaks and proper operation
• Check hot water tank working on both AC and engines
• Check for tank cap keys on board
• Check and clean shower sump pump screens

GALLEY:

Galley

• Fill propane (fuel) tank, check electric & manual valves, check storage box vent to make sure it is clear
• Check refrigerator, clean and freshen, operate on AC and DC
• Clean stove, check that all burners and oven are working
• Check microwave, other appliances, if fitted

TRAILER:

Trailering Parts & Accessories

• Check for current registration
• Check rollers and pads
• Check and lubricate wheel bearings
• Clean and lubricate winch
• Lubricate tongue jack and wheel
• Test lights and electrical connections
• Check tire pressure and condition
• Check brakes (if equipped)
• Check safety chains
• Check tongue lock